Monday, December 31, 2007

2008 Wine "Resolutions"

Since most of us cannot keep our New Year's resolutions, or we've 'resolved' NOT to have resolutions in the first place, I thought I'd throw together a more poignant list of what it is I'd like to achieve with my wine savviness. Now this does not mean that I will not concoct some personal list of things I'd like to achieve in 2008...I actually like resolutions in the form of goals...but I do want to separate my wine category as there is so much to learn. So as I've learned more of what I actually don't know, I feel it appropriate to fill the gaps in my wine repertoire. Here goes...

1. Learn more about food and wine combining. I still think this is a hugely under-rated subject and most can benefit from learning good combinations.
2. Explore Australian wines more. The volume and variety coming out of Australia these days is growing rapidly and they are making some VERY interesting wines.
3. Visit a region that I have not been to yet. The top two on the list would be Tuscany or Bordeaux.
4. Revamp my wine cellar and drink the ones ready to go. Problem here is that I believe I have more wine that needs drinking than I have either friends or time...OK, not such a big problem.
5. Work more directly with wineries in reaching the general public. There is a huge opportunity for people to discover lesser-known great wines.
6. Drink a lot more Riesling and learn more about this noble grape. It is one of the most food-friendly grapes around and I've only scratched the surface of its potential.
7. Discover more of the great wines and values of Spain and Portugal. I love all the indigenous varietals there and it is truly one of the great up-and-coming regions in the world.
8. Go to more wine tastings. Just in my area, there are several stores/shops conducting really nice tastings that are a great way to discover wines that you would not normally encounter.
9. Drink more Champagne (sparkling wines). There is so much good "sparkly" being made all over the world now that I'd be very remiss not to try it more often.
10. Have more home wine parties. I love to entertain and introduce my friends and family to interesting wine and food experiences.


Now that I have put this in 'black and white' for all to see, I feel very compelled to stick to the plans I've set out for my wine adventures. As opposed to my personal goals that I generally keep to myself and stress out to make happen, these might be easier to achieve. At least in looking at this list above, I think it is safe to say that I'll have a hell of a lot more fun sticking to my wine resolutions than my personal ones.

Hmmm, maybe we're on to something here...actually make your resolutions something you enjoy doing...? OK, personal resolution #1 duly noted...9 more to go.

Best wishes to all for a great 2008!

Until the next sip...swirl ya' later,
JM
Chief Wino

Thursday, December 20, 2007

Bring on the bubbles...tiny bubbles.

Well before the New Year even starts, I've already decided what my first (of many I presume) resolutions will be - Drink more Champagne! Like many resolutions, I've said this before and did not stick to it and I am in such a deficit now that my tombstone should read - "lover of good women (my wife), wine and song...but did not drink enough Champagne damnit!"

So what will make 2008 any different? For starters, I have a new appreciation for sparkling wine and food combinations. I really had no idea that sparkling wine could pair so well with so many foods...especially seafood which I love as well. Second, I've discovered all the other regions that produce very good sparkling wine at very reasonable prices. Cava, Sekt, Asti/Spumante, Prosecco, Cremant along with all the domestic brands that are doing a very good job with sparklers these days. Lastly, more convenient availability on hand. I am committed to always having a bottle chilled and ready to go. In the past, I would only purchase for special occasions and then chill it appropriately. A small separate cooler for this will do the trick. (hey Santa, wink, wink, are you listening...?)

Now, back to the food and sparkling wine thing. To begin with the basics, realize that Champagne is wine, only bubblier, and should be paired appropriately. True Champagne can only come from the Champagne region in Northern France and all others fall in to other 'sparkling wine' categories by country as mentioned earlier. The three main grapes used are Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier. (other countries use various indigenous grape varietals...but that's a whole other story). Blanc de Blancs (lighter body) is derived solely from the white grapes and Blanc de Noir (more weight) is from the Pinot Noir (dark) grape. Rose Champagne (my personal favorite) is mostly from the Pinot Noir grape with a touch of skin color imparted. Sidenote: Brut is drier than "Extra Dry" on labels and 'Vintage' Champagne is labeled with a year only in the years worthy of giving it this designation.

Some of the keys to sparkling wine going so well with food is its light alcohol and is balanced acidity. As with any food and wine combinations, you should pair the weight of the food with the weight of wine. In this case, the weight of the sparkly. Cava and Prosecco are lighter, and Rose and Vintage Champagne are heavier.

Here are some suggestions to pair with Champagne (sparkling wine):

Lighter-body - Cava, Sekt, Prosecco, Blanc de Blancs
- Salads, shellfish (crab/lobster/shrimp), oysters, sushi/sashimi, caviar, ceviche, Goda/Feta cheese

Fuller-bodied - Brut, Vintage, Rose
- roasted lighter meats (duck/poultry or ham), smoked seafoods, salmon, seafood salads/cocktail

Sweeter Champagnes or sparkling reds
- Chocolate, cake, cheesecake

That should give you a good start just in time for the holidays. Or, like me, commit to drinking more sparkling wine altogether, alone or with food.

Cheers! To a happy holiday and a very prosperous 2008!!

Until the next sip...swirl ya' later,
JM
Chief Wino

Monday, December 3, 2007

The Wall of Wines

Here in California, we are fortunate enough to have the convenience of purchasing wine and liquor at the local grocer along with doing our regular shopping. I lived in Colorado for several years and was not only disappointed that grocers cannot sell wine, but you cannot even buy wine or liquor (or cars) on Sundays at all! Sacre bleu!! A travesty...but like everything else, you adapt and plan appropriately. I digress...back to my point...the wall of wines at the wine store or grocer...

So, here I am at the local Vons store, and I needed to buy a wine on the fly for certain dish that night. Off to the wine isle. Now keep in mind, Vons is one of the largest retailers of wine in the country and they do a pretty good job of stocking, displaying, and carrying some decent brands at very good prices. They've even done a good job of remodeling some stores here that really focus on wine sales and kiosk displays. At least, as much as you can do without a wine expert at the ready. But here's the rub; as I turned down the 'wine isle', I was met with a true wall of wines from one end of the store to the other. I mean, a real wall top to bottom, front to back, and the deep view isle like something you'd see out of a Alfred Hitchcock movie (Veritgo comes to mind).

I stepped back and thought, "Wow, how does the average consumer make a choice here? Where to even start?" With no help anywhere in sight, I began to think of a better way along with trying to get in to the mind of the consumer and their view of this dilemma. Uh oh, sometimes I hate my entrepreneurial mind...now I'm really in trouble...ugh!

So, here I am, frozen, staring at this wall of wines, looking up and down, right and left, in front of me and behind, thinking, staring, watching, wondering what's next. Then, it occurred to me that most people that go to the grocery store and buying, what else, (eureka!) food. Hmmm, food, wine, convenience, price, all in one place. There's got to be an opportunity here somewhere.

Here's my pitch. When I win the lottery and money is no longer a concern, (clutching my tickets right now...7,16,18,29,46 & 6), I want to present all these grocers with food & wine pairing kiosks to sit right in the middle of the wall of wines. I want to take all of my internet wine experience and bundle it all together to create the perfect virtual wine helper...let's call him 'Johnny' (i.e. Johnny on the spot). With these kiosks, you'd be able to type in "tuna caserole" and get a list of wine options right next to you to buy that will go with that dish. Type in "Merlot" and see dishes you can create to go with your favorite wine. Or, you can type in a variety of requests that involve wine, liquor, food or entertaining and get volumes of info and suggestions along with carefully selected partners to assist in the process. You could also make 'Johnny' available from home so that people could leisurely spend time and/or print out materials to carry while they shop. Point is, you've got a very captive audience and the possibilities are endless.

On second thought, maybe if I present these grocers this idea now, it WILL be like winning the lottery, only better odds. Now if I just had the ultra deep pockets to execute this myself in the first place...chicken or the egg? All right, everyone hold hands and let's pray for the following - 7, 16, 18, 29, 46 & 6.

Until the next sip...swirl ya' later!

JM
Chief Wino

Thursday, November 29, 2007

Wine List Blues.

OK, I'm on a mission to change all restaurants' wine lists to accommodate me (and my friends). I'll be selfish here and request that I am no longer left wondering what is best with my dish or if my guests will be happy with the wine I choose. Since I am usually the one that everyone hands the wine list over to the minute we sit down, I need more information from the 'expert' who put the list together. At the very least, give me some decent descriptions, a chef recommendation or two, some ratings, winemaker's notes and let me make somewhat of an informed decision.

This raises an interesting observation. If I even have trouble with the majority of the wine lists out there, how about the average person dining out with little knowledge of wine? In the sea of choices on a linear wine list, how do we choose? It becomes a guessing game at best. Unless swayed or compelled otherwise a certain way (by the rare resident Sommelier), most will opt for the tried and true brand name or strictly go by price leaving out some potentially great wines to try. I believe that restaurants have gotten lazy with their lists and are not only leaving the customer in a flux, but leaving money on the table...so to speak.

Here's an example of how I feel a page should appear vs. the usual linear listing of wines and their prices:

Merlot

Merlot (pronounced ‘merr-lo’) originates from Bordeaux region of France and is used both as blending grape and for single varietal wines. Merlot based wines usually have a medium body with hints of berry, plum and currant. It’s known for its softness, low acidity and light tannins which make it a very easy to drink wine. Merlot pairs well with grilled meats, duck, pork chops, veal and light pasta dishes.

►►Chef recommended menu pairings:
Ravioli alla Caprese, Penne Villa Capri, Pollo Parmigiana, Vitello alla Parmigiana, Filetto al Pepe Verde, Bocconcini di Manzo al Gorgonzola


Merlot Selections Region Price


2005 Fallbrook Reserve - Fallbrook, CA $21
95% Merlot, 5% Syrah
The ripe cherry flavors are complimented by the rich deep character of the North/Central Coast Merlot grapes, providing a distinct varietal fruit character with exceptional color and a smooth lingering finish.

2003 Martin Ray - Napa Valley, CA $36
96% Merlot, 4% Cabernet
A deep garnet color highlighted by aromas of ripe cherry, plum and a soft hint of vanilla. Bright, complex flavors of fresh cherry and strawberry are nicely rounded out by rich vanilla oak.

2003 Kenneth Volk - Paso Robles, CA $39
87% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Franc
This dark Merlot has aromas of anise seed, ripe berry, olive and cigar box spices. On the palate, the wine is tightly structured with moderately firm, persistent tannins.

2003 Hall - Napa Valley, CA 90/WS $48
100% Merlot
On the palate, expect generous briar fruit and black cherry with hints of spice, mocha and vanilla as smooth, subtle tannins round out the mid palate, leading to a long, lingering finish.

2003 Peju Estate Selection - Napa Valley, CA 91/WS $52
92% Merlot, 7% Cabernet, 1% Petit Verdot
Bright red color with aromas of red currant, vanilla, clove, raspberry, bing cherry, and freshly crushed sage. This Merlot is suave and finely textured, round and voluminous on the palate - with rich flavors of vanilla bean, cherry and currant.


Fun Wine Facts:

When wine makers refer to ‘Bordeaux style’ wines, they are referring to the use of at least three of the five main Bordeaux blending varietals which are – Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot.

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In my opinion, this accomplishes many things. First of all, by giving some background to the varietal (Merlot in this case) it gives the customer some information about the grape beyond just what Merlot stands for in their minds. Second, it immediately gives them an idea of what goes best with the food and credibility from the Chef. Third, by using the winemaker's notes, it allows an opportunity to upsell the more expensive wines and/or insert ratings if they choose. Last, it brings to life the menu and gives an air of comfort to the reader/customer and can appeal to their palate more easily. Plus, you give the reader some wine tidbits that they may not already know and this lends to building more customer loyalty and good conversation.

So, let it be known from here on out, I am going to approach every restaurant I know or visit from now on to make these changes to their list. Truly, a journey of a thousand steps starts with one...coming soon to a restaurant near you.

Until the next sip...swirl ya' later!

JM
Chief Wino

Monday, November 19, 2007

Key Aroma 'Triggers'

Have you ever had a smell that came across you that almost magically took you way back to a lost memory or place? The smell of a perfume, wood burning embers, baby powder, petrol, freshly ground coffee, fresh baked cookies or even a new car can trigger various instant memories. In the world of wine, this can be a very useful tool if practiced correctly.

Back in one of my earlier wine classes, I clearly remember an instance when as we were doing our 'blind tastings' (i.e. when the varietal (grape) or wine is not revealed to you ahead of time) one of the students identified the nose of one particular wine as seemingly 'pepperoni-like' to her. After much of the class had a good chuckle about it, the instructor took this opportunity to point out that this was a prime moment to explore more of what was happening here. Spending some time with the student, it was uncovered that it happened to be a key trigger of the spicy/peppery flavors that often come from Zinfandel grapes/wine. Although pepperoni was a bit of stretch here, it was pointed out that for HER nose, it was a one of the definitive signs that this was a Zinfandel wine. From there on out, every time she got that 'pepperoni' nose, she always quickly identified the wine as Zinfandel. This applies primarily to single varietal (non-blended) wines, although once very well practiced, you can actually pick up these separate aromas in blends as well...but for now, stick to single varietals.

What I'd like to share is some of the key triggers I get when I "nose" certain wines. When doing several blind tastings, it helps immensely to have these triggers to quickly identify the varietal first and then continue on with the rest of the tasting evaluation. This is very individual and there are really no wrong answers here as long as it triggers the right grape used in production. Whatever you get that keys you in on the varietal is all that matters.

Here are a few of my triggers for wines that I drink regularly that take me to the varietal almost immediately:

Cabernet Sauvignon - green pepper mixed with leather

Merlot - soft red fruits

Syrah - vegetable garden

Pinot Noir
- red vines licorice/cherry mixed with straw floor (i.e. barnyard earthiness)

Zinfandel - alcoholic spice & pepper with black fruit

Port - cup of moist raisins

Sauvignon Blanc - floral green grass

Riesling - old fashioned sweet tarts or petrol (German)

Chardonnay - orchard fruit mixed with caramel (sometimes tropical)


This takes some practice to key in on your triggers for your nose, but it is a fun exercise. Although it is far from fool-proof, once you get a key identifier that you can definitively tag to a certain varietal, you'll be amazed at how much better you will do at blind tastings. In addition, it allows you to focus on the other components of the wine beyond the grape varietal as you go through the evaluation processes.

Start by having someone pour you a wine without having any idea what they are pouring and try to figure out what varietal it is. Also, at the local wine bar that does wine flights (usually 3-4 various wines), it is a good opportunity to have the server present them in a specific order blind to you without identifying the varietals first. When they have given you ample time, he can then reveal the varietals to see how you did. Once you get it down, you can show off to your friends at the next gathering...maybe even this Thanksgiving or Christmas.

Happy Holidays and enjoy!

Until the next sip..swirl ya' later.

JM

Monday, November 12, 2007

"Perfect Pairings"

Ahhh, food & wine...I think one of the few reasons I even bother to eat these (busy) days is the possibility of uncorking a bottle of something new and exploring how well it goes with my dish. I know I am one of those few people (at least among my friends) that REALLY pays that much attention to what I eat with what I drink...beer, wine or spirits. The other day I had to really convince someone that as much as they love their Cabs, it was not going to be their best choice with a lobster dinner they were considering...eeeesh! And, the other day while minding my own business as I ordered a nice Riesling with my spiced halibut dish, someone (thinking I was out of earshot) had the nerve to suggest that "anyone who still drinks white wine has not developed their palate yet for red wines". Wow, I could hardly believe my ears!!

Now, I realize there are few absolutes here and the old "white with white meat" and "red with red meat" monikers are a bit antiquated as well. It can be confusing and complex at best sometimes. However, I would like to propose a few of what I call 'perfect pairings' for those who may want to experiment/expand their tastes or try areas that otherwise might go unexplored. These are by no means complete and leave plenty of room for experimentation (alternatives), but a good place to start. Also, a lot has to do with the sauces/spices used that can change the entire complexion of the dish, so, take it with a, uh, "grain of salt"...so to speak...

So, here goes...


Food/Dish + Wine Pairing

Rib Eye Steak Cabernet Sauvignon
Rack of Lamb Bordeaux/Syrah
Pork Loin Chateauneuf du Pape
Roasted meats/stews Tempranillo
Grilled meats/onion Malbec
Buttery whitefish/lobster Chardonnay
Grilled Salmon Pinot Noir
Herb Crusted Halibut Pinot Gris
Spicy/Asian Riesling (Spatlese/Auslese)
Chili/Pizza Zinfandel
Sushi/Oysters/Caviar Champagne
Red Sauce pasta Chianti
Creme Brule Sauternes/white dessert
Rich Chocolate Port
Mexican food Gewurztraminer (or beer if yo must)
Goat Cheese Sauvignon Blanc
Blue Cheese Cabernet Sauvignon


Well, this ought to give you a good place to start or at least something to think about. Try some of these and write back your comments and/or what you may have found different about your experience. As I mentioned, there are actually few absolutes (but please, no tannic reds with Lobster...), and there are a lot of variables to consider. The most general of advice is to try and match the 'weight' of the dish to the 'weight' of the wine. Light and delicate food rarely goes well with big robust wines and vice-versa.

Next time out at your favorite restaurant or making a dish at home, take a moment to consider all the flavors you are going to encounter and then try to match accordingly...ask questions, look stuff up on the net, post on forums, etc. There is a lot of info out there on the subject. Although there is no perfect science, you will find that the right pairing can make a big difference in the enhancement of the food or experience. Believe me, when you find that "perfect pairing" for your palate, you will know...and, you'll be hooked on the 'methods to the madness' to make it happen again.

Good luck and happy pairing.

Until the next sip...swirl ya' later!